FORCE 10

COZY CABIN HEATER

DIESEL/KEROSINE MODEL

OWNER'S MANUAL AND WARRANTY

• INTRODUCTION

• SAFETY AND INSTALLATION

• OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

• TROUBLESHOOTING

• REPAIRING THE BURNER

• CHECK PROCEDURE

• REMOVAL OF BURNER FOR SERVICING

• TESTING

• LIMITED WARRANTY

INTRODUCTION

SAFETY AND INSTALLATION

General

Included with Your Heater

Installation of Heater in Cabin

1. Choose a convenient location for optimum circulation, but not where someone might accidentally touch it.
2. The best height is such that the top is approximately 36" off the floor in a boat with 72" headroom. It is better closer to the ground than the bulkhead.
3. Allow a safe distance between the sides and the bottom of the heater and combustible materials. Usually 6" is sufficient, but if in doubt, protect combustible material with metal and/or insulating type material such as ceramic tile.
4. If the heater is mounted such that the stack length or clearance of combustible material above the heater is less than 24", the overhead surface should be protected with metal and/or insulating type material such as ceramic tile.
5. Place the insulating washers between the feet of the heater and the mounting surface. This is all the protection neccessary on normal bulkheads. However, if the bulkhead is painted or is soft vinyl, a stainless steel sheet larger than the area covered by the heater should also be installed. This would create further protection from heat discoloration. Hard insulation material behind the stainless steel sheet would also be recommended.
6. Screw heater in place temporarily. (It will be necessary to remove it to install the stack.)

Installation of Deck Cap and Stack

1. Drill a 2" hole in the cabin for the stack to pass through.
1. Note: Stack is not supplied in this kit as every installation is different, no need to ship 6" if you only need 2" of stack. The stack material is 1" OD (outer diameter) ornamental stainless steel tubing available from your dealer or boat builder. It is the same pipe used to make pulpits and railings (1"OD = 7/8" ID-inside diameter). If you are bending your stack, remember to take into account the radius of your bend in determining the overall length. Do NOT bend more than 45° at any one bend.
2. Fabricate a round wooden ring approximately 1/2 to 34 inches thick with a 2" hole drilled through the middle on which to mount the deck cap. A thread winch pad is ideal, and available from local marine dealers.
3. Using suitable bedding compound, screw the dec cap and wooden ring in place using one of the white gaskets supplied as an insulator between the cap and the ring.
4. Determine the length of the stack required by measuring the distance between the top of the heater and half way up into the deck cap (stack should not contact cabin top). The stack may be bent up to a 45° angle with a 5" radius or more to by-pass deck beams or other obstructions (an electrician's conduit bender does a good job). You can easily make a mock-up using residential copper wire pipe before you bend the real thing.
5. The maximum recommended length of stack is 10'. If there are bends in the stack remove 18" from the maximum length for every bend.
6. Cut the stack to proper length, remove the heater, place the stack up into the deck rain cap. Install interior finishing ring with cone pointing downward, ensuring That the stack does not contact the cone and placing the other white gasket between the finishing ring and the cabin head liner.
7. Replace the heater and fasten it permanently, remembering to reinstall the the protective washers between the feet of the heater and the mounting surface.

Installation of the Fuel Tank

Installation of the Fuel Line

Installation Pressure Test

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

Filling the Tank

1. Fill the tank approximately 3/4 full of clean filtered fuel. Dirty fuel will eventually plug up the burner, so use a screened funnel. If you do not have a screened funnel pour the fuel through a clean cloth.
2. Check the burner to be sure it is turned OFF.
3. Using a bicycle pump, pressurize the tank to approximately 30 psi or 2 atm.
4. For a cleaner burning heater add 1 part mineral spirits to 4 parts fuel.

Bleeding the Fuel Lines

1. Turn the control knob approximately 1/4 turn to the left (counterclockwise) or until you are able to hear the air hissing out of the burner.
2. Leave the knob in this position and watch the small orifice in the center of the burner.
3. The hissing sound will continue for a while depending on the length of your line. Continue to watch the orifice until a small stream of fuel is seen shooting up. This can take approximately 1 to 2 minutes.
4. When the fuel is seen, immediately shut the burner off and follow normal lighting procedure. Wipe off any fuel on the burner, or you will get a smell during preheating.

Preheating and Lighting the Burner

1. Pour at least one ounce of alcohol into the burner cup and light. Note: until you gauge how much alcohol to use, always use too much. Allow the alcohol to burn out completely. Proceed with lighting the burner. Turn the control knob to the center position and light immediately. There is no set Hi-Med-Low position, so familiarize yourself with the flame and where the cleaning cycle is (see point 4). Never operate your burner in the cleaning cycle.
2. If the burner lights with a tall orange-yellow flame, shut the burner off right away and preheat again. It may have been drafty in your galley, so the alcohol flame did not heat your burner adequately. Remember - a hot burner lights readily, whereas a cool burner will flare up. A correct flame is short, non-smelling blue flame.
3. If you have to preheat your burner a second time, first allow it it to cool for a minute or two before adding more alcohol. if you pour alcohol on a hot burner, it will evaporate instantly and the alcohol fumes could create a flare up. Safety first -- allow burner to cool, add more alcohol, then re-light.
4. When you are ready to turn off your heater, turn the handle fully counterclockwise to the cleaning cycle. Leave in this position for 1 minute. This will allow your burner to cool down and clean the nipple to prevent coking inside the burner.

TROUBLESHOOTING

The Burner Burns with a Yellow Smokey Flame

1. The burner was not preheated enough. Turn off the burner and preheat again with alcohol. Be careful when putting alcohol on a hot burner. Make sure the flame is completely out -- wait at least one minute after the burner is turned off.
2. If you often have problems with not getting the burner hot enough, try this trick. Take an empty can, about 3" - 4" in diameter. Remove the top and bottom of the can and place it around the preheating burner -- this will contain the heat and prevent any draft.
3. Perhaps you used methyl hydrate alcohol, which contains 40% water. We recommend that you use only denatured alcohol, which burns quite a bit hotter.
4. If your flame is blue with yellow tips, it may be that the inner cap is not properly seated. Remove the outer cap and push the inner cap all the way down.
5. If you want to start your burner in rough weather and have trouble keeping the alcohol cup full, you can use alcohol paste, available in some marine stores.
6. The fuel line may not have been purged. Therefore, when you turn the burner on after preheating, all you get is air for some time. When fuel finally arrives at the burner, the burner may have cooled off enough that it produces a yellow flame. We suggest that you purge the line first before preheating, by opening the burner and watching the nipple until liquid fuel appears. Wipe off the excess fuel before preheating.

The Burner Flame is Blue on One Side and Yellow on the Other

1. You may have carbon build-up in your nipple. Turn the control knob to the clean cycle a few times. This should clear the orifice. If the problem persists, try switching to a different fuel. Buy fuel that is as clear as possible and always filter your fuel.
2. Your outer or inner caps are not on straight or they may have carbon deposits on
them. Wipe them clean and install them straight. Caution: Be sure the burner is cool before handling, or use oven mitts.
3. You may have a nipple with a bad pricker. Replace the pricker by following the instructions in 'Repairing the Burner'.

No Fuel is Getting to Your Burner

1. Check fuel level in tank.
2. Pressure gauge may be faulty. Check pressure using a tire gauge on the air fitting. Replace the pressure gauge if necessary.
3. For installations where a long fuel line is used, we install a restrictor in the bottom of the burner (in the burner fitting). This is to prevent surging of the burner. This restrictor may be plugged, so follow instructions in 'Repairing the Burner'.

The Flame Shrinks after Burning for a While

1. Some fuels contain more carbon than others. If you use yellow coloured fuel it has a higher content of carbon. This carbon will build up at the end of the spindle inside the burner, restricting the flow of vaporized fuel. You can fix this by tapping the burner with a screwdriver or other utensil. This will knock off the carbon build up. If a large piece of carbon is blocking the orifice, turn the control knob to the clean cycle to unplug the orifice. Note: If you operate the unit with clear fuel, you will eliminate this problem 75% of the time.
2. There is not enough pressure from the tank. Check to make sure the pressure gauge is working by using a tire gauge. The minimum pressure required is a constant 10 psi. Running the fuel straight off a fuel pump without a pressure tank will no work properly.
3. Do not fill the tank to the top. The less air in the tank, the quicker the pressure will drop. It is best to fill the tank 3/4 full and then pressurize.

Burner Leaks Slightly When Not in Use

1. The burner control knob may be in the clean position and not in the closed position.
2. If the knob has more than 180° of turn, your pricker will prevent the spindle from closing the burner. Look at the instructions in the repair kit to learn how to fix this problem.
3. The spindle may be worn at the tapered point. Inspect and replace if necessary. Follow the instructions in 'Repairing the Burner'.

Burner Creates a Smell

1. You may be using inferior fuel.
2. You may have a few small leaks around the burner connection, which are not visible. Use the procedure in 'Repairing the Burner' to find and repair the small leaks.

The Flame is Continuously too Small

1. Test the pressure gauge on the tank with a tire gauge. Replace the gauge if necessary. Run the burner between 10 and 20 psi or 3/4 to 1 1/2 atm.
2. Your burner may be plugged up internally with carbon. If cleaning does not help you may need to replace the burner.
3. If the control knob has only 90° of turn, the pricker is not installed properly. Refer to the directions in 'Repairing the Burner'.

The Flame Surges or Jumps

1. The flame will surge if the burner is attached to the tank with more that 2 feet or 60cm of fuel line. This length creates uneven fuel pressure. You may need a restrictor either in the base of the burner or at the burner fitting.

A Small Yellow Flame Burns around the End of the Handle

1. Tighten stuffing box nut with a crescent wrench, about half a turn.
2. If it does not want to tighten anymore replace the packing.

REPAIRING THE BURNER

Procedure For Dismantling The Burner

1. Ensure the pressure is released from the supply tank and the control knob is in the closed position (Clockwise).
2. Turn and remove the two steel caps on the top of the burner. Using the nozzle wrench, remove the nipple by inserting the wrench in through the top of the burner and unscrewing it. Be sure to press down firmly on the wrench.
3. Open the control knob 1/4 turn until you can see the needle appear where the nipple was.
4. Using a normal pencil with an eraser in the end, drop it in the tip of the burner and push the eraser onto the needle.
5. Continue to open the control knob until the needle and the pricker are free and may be lifted out with the pencil. If the wire of the pricker is gone, use a small screwdriver from the side.
6. Remove the control knob by taking out the spring clip.
7. Using a 10mm or small crescent wrench, turn the stuffing box counter clockwise until it is free and can be removed.
8. Replace the control knob and turn the spindle counter clockwise until it is free and can be removed.
9. Inspect all parts for damage or excessive carbon build up.

Procedure For Re-Assembling The Burner

1. With the washer, packing and control knob on the spindle, screw the spindle all the way until it stops.
2. Remove the handle and put the stuffing box nut over the spindle.
3. Using the stuffing box nut, push the packing in until the thread on the stuffing box nut engages the thread on the burner.
4. Using a 10mm or small crescent wrench tighten the stuffing box nut until there is a perceptible drag felt when turning the control knob. This indicates it is compressing the packing against the shaft of the spindle.
5. Check the control handle is in the closed position (all the way clockwise).
6. Stick the pricker in the pencil. With the control knob pointing towards you, lower the pricker into the hole with the teeth facing to the left. Allow the pricker to rest on the spindle. Keep a slight downward pressure on the pencil and pricker and very slowly start opening the control knob (counter clockwise). Continue to open it until you feel four distinct clicks of the pricker through the pencil. This indicates you have passed four teeth on the spindle.
7. Close the control knob while keeping the slight downward pressure on the pencil. This action will draw the pricker into the burner.
8. Replace the nipple using the nozzle wrench (do not tighten it up hard until going through the check procedure outlined later in this document).
9. If the nipple keeps falling out of the wrench, use a little grease to keep it in the wrench.

CHECK PROCEDURE

Correction Procedure

Shut Off Valves

REMOVAL OF THE BURNER FOR SERVICING

If Your Tank is Lower Than Your Heater

1. Release pressure by carefully releasing the set screw located on the filler cap gauge on the tank.
2. Turn burner knob to open position to allow fuel line to drain
3. Use a 9/16" open end wrench to take off the flare nut while holding the fitting with a 7/16" open end wrench.
4. Remove burner using a 3/4" open end wrench on the burner securing nut, holding the burner securely with your hand to prevent it from swiveling. Apply force only to the case nut on the base of the burner. Never try to twist the burner top.

If Your Tank is Above or Even with Your Heater

1. Release pressure by carefully releasing the set screw on the filler cap gauge on the tank.
2. Leave burner control knob in the closed position.
3. Disconnect fuel line at the tank using 7/16" and 9/16" open end wrenches.
4. Remove burner as per #4 above, but place a large flat container beneath the heater to catch the liquid fuel which will empty from the line when the burner is removed.

TESTING

LIMITED WARRANTY